www.nationalgeographic.com
The ultimate itinerary for Beatles fans
Take a musical pilgrimage from London to Liverpool to New York.
BY ZAC O'YEAH
Monday, Jul 29 2019
Tourists pose for a photo on the iconic zebra crossing near Abbey Road Studios.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT ALEXANDER, GETTY IMAGES
The epiphany that I was a Beatles fan came in my early teens, and it was like experiencing one’s first heady taste of ale—I just knew this was something special. Considering I was born three weeks after the release of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band—the album that changed the sound of pop music—and three weeks before the launch of “All You Need Is Love,” it seems I was destined to be a diehard Beatles fan.
When John Lennon was shot I wrote a condolence letter to his
widow Yoko Ono, spending all my pocket money on the postage
from Sweden to New York; a decade later Paul McCartney played
nearby where I lived in Gothenburg, so I volunteered to work at
the arena just to get a chance to say “Hello, Goodbye.” When I
traveled through India I always thought of George Harrison, a
fellow Indophile like myself. I even heard a story from an old
hippie in Goa who claimed to have crossed paths with Ringo
Starr. They became like my extended family. So, it followed that
I should travel with them when I went on my first visit to England.
widow Yoko Ono, spending all my pocket money on the postage
from Sweden to New York; a decade later Paul McCartney played
nearby where I lived in Gothenburg, so I volunteered to work at
the arena just to get a chance to say “Hello, Goodbye.” When I
traveled through India I always thought of George Harrison, a
fellow Indophile like myself. I even heard a story from an old
hippie in Goa who claimed to have crossed paths with Ringo
Starr. They became like my extended family. So, it followed that
I should travel with them when I went on my first visit to England.
A stroll down Abbey Road
Topmost on my agenda when I arrived in London was to take
the underground to the neat, and outlying Saint John’s Wood.
It isn’t named after Lennon, but the station boasts a Beatles-
inspired coffee shop, selling the essential “I crossed Abbey Road”
badge. Down the road is the legendary Abbey Road Studios,
where the Beatles cut many hits, as did icons such as Pink Floyd,
Queen, and U2.
the underground to the neat, and outlying Saint John’s Wood.
It isn’t named after Lennon, but the station boasts a Beatles-
inspired coffee shop, selling the essential “I crossed Abbey Road”
badge. Down the road is the legendary Abbey Road Studios,
where the Beatles cut many hits, as did icons such as Pink Floyd,
Queen, and U2.
But I didn’t see any popstars step out humming a hit, and truth
be told it was a fairly anonymous dirty-white building, which
was a bit of a let-down. However, the main draw was in front
of the studios: to my knowledge, the only zebra crossing that
has been bestowed a heritage monument status. Once the
tourists in front of me finished taking selfies, I tap danced
across like a Beatle gone solo, dodging cars in the manner of a
second-rate bullfighter, realizing it would’ve been better to come
on a Sunday when London settles down.
be told it was a fairly anonymous dirty-white building, which
was a bit of a let-down. However, the main draw was in front
of the studios: to my knowledge, the only zebra crossing that
has been bestowed a heritage monument status. Once the
tourists in front of me finished taking selfies, I tap danced
across like a Beatle gone solo, dodging cars in the manner of a
second-rate bullfighter, realizing it would’ve been better to come
on a Sunday when London settles down.
Afterwards, I took the tube to Baker Street, and headed to the
London Beatles Store souvenir shop—advertising its opening
hours as “Eight Days a Week.” Incidentally, in the late 1960s the
Beatles themselves ran their own trendy, yet short-lived, Apple
Store at 94 Baker Street when they diversified into design, but
the venture was a commercial failure.
London Beatles Store souvenir shop—advertising its opening
hours as “Eight Days a Week.” Incidentally, in the late 1960s the
Beatles themselves ran their own trendy, yet short-lived, Apple
Store at 94 Baker Street when they diversified into design, but
the venture was a commercial failure.
A visitor takes a photograph of Abbey Road Studios in London, where the Beatles recorded several hit songs.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT ALEXANDER, GETTY IMAGES
A graffiti-covered wall near Abbey Road Studios pays homage to the Beatles.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT ALEXANDER, GETTY IMAGES
Magical mystery tour
My next destination was the Marylebone station around the
corner from Baker Street, which features in the opening sequence
of the 1964 movie, A Hard Day’s Night. It was also where
Liverpool trains terminated, making it the Beatles’ entry point to
London. As I walked about, I got the feeling that almost every
other building had something to do with them. Not far from the
station, Starr rented an apartment at 34 Montagu Square,
where Yoko Ono and Lennon lived one summer. The blue heritage
placard sits high up on the wall so that no souvenir-hunter can
nick the marker of the abode where the nude cover photo for
Lennon’s first solo album Two Virgins (1968) was made.
corner from Baker Street, which features in the opening sequence
of the 1964 movie, A Hard Day’s Night. It was also where
Liverpool trains terminated, making it the Beatles’ entry point to
London. As I walked about, I got the feeling that almost every
other building had something to do with them. Not far from the
station, Starr rented an apartment at 34 Montagu Square,
where Yoko Ono and Lennon lived one summer. The blue heritage
placard sits high up on the wall so that no souvenir-hunter can
nick the marker of the abode where the nude cover photo for
Lennon’s first solo album Two Virgins (1968) was made.
The headquarters of Apple Records, the label they started at 3
Savile Row, is long gone, yet I wasn’t the only fan gawking at
the rooftop. It was there the concert movie Let It Be was filmed
during the Beatles’ last public performance on a cold January day
in 1969. The spectacle irritated neighbors so much that they called
the bobbies, who ended the historical event unceremoniously. But
at least they won an Academy Award for best original soundtrack.
Savile Row, is long gone, yet I wasn’t the only fan gawking at
the rooftop. It was there the concert movie Let It Be was filmed
during the Beatles’ last public performance on a cold January day
in 1969. The spectacle irritated neighbors so much that they called
the bobbies, who ended the historical event unceremoniously. But
at least they won an Academy Award for best original soundtrack.
While both Lennon and Harrison have moved on to the big studio
in the sky, one might spot Sir McCartney outside his offices in
Soho Square. It’s a discreet building, but keep an eye out for
the “mpl” over the glass doors (McCartney Productions Limited),
the company that holds his copyrights. I also sauntered past 7
Cavendish Avenue, where Macca has lived since the 1960s,
with high hopes he might step out for a quick puff of his once-
preferred herb. And, of course, I tracked down the address
where actress Jane Asher used to live, whom McCartney dated
before marrying Linda Eastman. Once when he slept over at her
place on 57 Wimpole Street, he woke up ravenous and came
up with a song called Scrambled Eggs. The melody was great but
the lyrics needed an overhaul, so he rewrote it asYesterday—which
remains one of the most covered songs in the world.
in the sky, one might spot Sir McCartney outside his offices in
Soho Square. It’s a discreet building, but keep an eye out for
the “mpl” over the glass doors (McCartney Productions Limited),
the company that holds his copyrights. I also sauntered past 7
Cavendish Avenue, where Macca has lived since the 1960s,
with high hopes he might step out for a quick puff of his once-
preferred herb. And, of course, I tracked down the address
where actress Jane Asher used to live, whom McCartney dated
before marrying Linda Eastman. Once when he slept over at her
place on 57 Wimpole Street, he woke up ravenous and came
up with a song called Scrambled Eggs. The melody was great but
the lyrics needed an overhaul, so he rewrote it asYesterday—which
remains one of the most covered songs in the world.
I didn’t have time to go to the British Library, where Lennon’s
handwritten lyrics for Strawberry Fields Forever are on display,
nor the rock and roll museum at the Old Park Lane branch of
Hard Rock Cafe that preserves Lennon’s specs—Liverpool
beckoned. As I squinted out at the foggy British landscape from
the coach window, I thought back on my years of Beatlemania.
handwritten lyrics for Strawberry Fields Forever are on display,
nor the rock and roll museum at the Old Park Lane branch of
Hard Rock Cafe that preserves Lennon’s specs—Liverpool
beckoned. As I squinted out at the foggy British landscape from
the coach window, I thought back on my years of Beatlemania.
MILLENNIUM BRIDGE
Looking at St. Paul's Cathedral and the Millennium Bridge in London
(This photo and caption were submitted to Your Shot.)
PHOTOGRAPH BY PHILIP COZZOLINO, YOUR SHOT
Across the universe
One of its most extreme moments was in Athens, Greece, where
I found the band’s sandal maker near Monastiraki Square and
bought exactly the same footwear that Lennon had (I even wore
them as I wrote this piece). On my first trip to India in the early
1990s, I immediately checked out the Rikhi Ram & Sons shop
at Connaught Place, Delhi, where Harrison bought a sitar, sarod,
and tanpura to use on Beatles’ recordings, before I headed to
Rishikesh where they meditated in 1968. In Mumbai, I snuck
into the Taj Mahal Palace hotel where, in 1966, Harrison took
sitar classes from Ravi Shankar. The hotel has since renamed his
room “The Ravi Shankar Suite,” though before I could get a peek
inside the security promptly threw me out as I was dressed too
much like a hippie Beatle myself. On that trip, Harrison also
visited the actual Taj Mahal in Agra to take an iconic selfie.
I found the band’s sandal maker near Monastiraki Square and
bought exactly the same footwear that Lennon had (I even wore
them as I wrote this piece). On my first trip to India in the early
1990s, I immediately checked out the Rikhi Ram & Sons shop
at Connaught Place, Delhi, where Harrison bought a sitar, sarod,
and tanpura to use on Beatles’ recordings, before I headed to
Rishikesh where they meditated in 1968. In Mumbai, I snuck
into the Taj Mahal Palace hotel where, in 1966, Harrison took
sitar classes from Ravi Shankar. The hotel has since renamed his
room “The Ravi Shankar Suite,” though before I could get a peek
inside the security promptly threw me out as I was dressed too
much like a hippie Beatle myself. On that trip, Harrison also
visited the actual Taj Mahal in Agra to take an iconic selfie.
All you need is Liverpool
Happier days awaited in Liverpool, so I took a bus to the
Woolton suburb riddled with places reminiscent of the Beatles.
On 251 Menlove Avenue, I tracked down Lennon’s childhood
home, Mendips—a 1930s, semi-detached villa now owned by
the U.K.’s National Trust. As a child, he played guitar on the
porch and amused himself at the nearby Strawberry Field
orphanage. The McCartney family home on 20 Forthlin
Road is also managed by the trust. Other hotspots include
Penny Lane and the parish church where Lennon–McCartney
originally teamed up in 1957 (and where a woman named
Eleanor Rigby lies buried).
Woolton suburb riddled with places reminiscent of the Beatles.
On 251 Menlove Avenue, I tracked down Lennon’s childhood
home, Mendips—a 1930s, semi-detached villa now owned by
the U.K.’s National Trust. As a child, he played guitar on the
porch and amused himself at the nearby Strawberry Field
orphanage. The McCartney family home on 20 Forthlin
Road is also managed by the trust. Other hotspots include
Penny Lane and the parish church where Lennon–McCartney
originally teamed up in 1957 (and where a woman named
Eleanor Rigby lies buried).
I left the quiet neighborhood and headed to where the pre-
Beatlemania action actually happened—downtown Liverpool.
The harbor town has certainly capitalized on its Beatles
connection with Magical Mystery bus tours and the Hard
Day’s Night Hotel; additional sites include include a fancy
replica of the Cavern Club (the original was demolished).
Beatlemania action actually happened—downtown Liverpool.
The harbor town has certainly capitalized on its Beatles
connection with Magical Mystery bus tours and the Hard
Day’s Night Hotel; additional sites include include a fancy
replica of the Cavern Club (the original was demolished).
I opted to down a pint at the not-so-glamorous Jacaranda on
Slater Street, where they performed before their breakthrough—
in the crammed basement there are murals painted by the the
Beatles’ original bassist Stuart Sutcliffe. One profile on the wall
looked like Lennon’s face. In fact, I drank at every pub with the
slightest association with them: The Grapes on Mathew Street,
where they had pints before heading to the Cavern Club; Ye
Cracke on Rice Street is where Lennon and Cynthia (his first
wife-to-be) had their first date; The Pilgrim on Pilgrim Street
is famous for some Beatle thing or another; and Philharmonic
on Hope Street was the snazziest of their local hangouts.
Slater Street, where they performed before their breakthrough—
in the crammed basement there are murals painted by the the
Beatles’ original bassist Stuart Sutcliffe. One profile on the wall
looked like Lennon’s face. In fact, I drank at every pub with the
slightest association with them: The Grapes on Mathew Street,
where they had pints before heading to the Cavern Club; Ye
Cracke on Rice Street is where Lennon and Cynthia (his first
wife-to-be) had their first date; The Pilgrim on Pilgrim Street
is famous for some Beatle thing or another; and Philharmonic
on Hope Street was the snazziest of their local hangouts.
These pubs, which seem to have remained unchanged throughout
the ages, brought me closer to them than the official Beatlemania
tourism industry did—the only drawback is that a diehard fan
doing all the Beatles-pubs needs a bladder the size of
Liverpool’s harbor.
the ages, brought me closer to them than the official Beatlemania
tourism industry did—the only drawback is that a diehard fan
doing all the Beatles-pubs needs a bladder the size of
Liverpool’s harbor.
This story was adapted from National Geographic Traveller India.
